Brian and I headed up to help with the dahlia tubers around 1pm . We met Marilyn, Brian , Moeen and I think Heather. They were there already trimming and seperating the tubers. It was extremely windy and seeing as the weather seems to always be worse at PTG than in the city we dressed for it. Getting out of the car we had to hold the doors so they didn't blow off. It is always cooler up here too so we brought a warm jacket/coat and wore appropriate footwear. For our task today we needed gloves and a pair of secateurs. The parlour is fairly dusty so its always adviseable to not wear anything too nice.
While working away we found out that several people helped out Thursday and volunteers also managed to get the Wedding garden cleaned up including getting the grasses cut back.
Already a good start to the season.
April 7, 2013
April 2, 2013
Calling all Volunteers!!
Just taking a poll on whether anyone might have some time during the day this
Thursday, April 4. Linda, Brian and I plan to be up at the gardens, given the
promising weather forecast, and we would be grateful to anyone who can join us.
There are many work options to suit all talents.
We are also hoping for a few volunteers for Sunday afternoon to continue our work in the milk parlour cleaning, splitting and counting the dahlia and canna tubers. If we can get this done, perhaps we can hold a sale of our extras, and of course volunteers can fill their pockets for free before the sale!
If you can help Thursday, please specify morning or afternoon and we will work with your schedule insofar as possible.
If you can help Sunday, Brian and I plan to be there at 1:00 p.m. and we usually work until 3:00 p.m., or possibly a little later.
I plan to send emails to let you know whenever we will be at the gardens and what we will most likely be working on, and if you can join us we will be happy to find you a task! If you prefer NOT to receive these emails, please let me know.
We are also hoping for a few volunteers for Sunday afternoon to continue our work in the milk parlour cleaning, splitting and counting the dahlia and canna tubers. If we can get this done, perhaps we can hold a sale of our extras, and of course volunteers can fill their pockets for free before the sale!
If you can help Thursday, please specify morning or afternoon and we will work with your schedule insofar as possible.
If you can help Sunday, Brian and I plan to be there at 1:00 p.m. and we usually work until 3:00 p.m., or possibly a little later.
I plan to send emails to let you know whenever we will be at the gardens and what we will most likely be working on, and if you can join us we will be happy to find you a task! If you prefer NOT to receive these emails, please let me know.
February 24, 2013
Egyptian Walking Onion
Allium proliferum are extremely easy to grow. Egyptian
Walking Onions are extremely hardy plants. They have endured
harsh winters with temperatures plummeting down to -24° below
zero! Hence the name, "Winter Onion." They grow well
in zones 3-9.
One of the first plants to emerge in spring the leaves of Egyptian Walking Onions poke through the soil and will grow up to 3 feet in height. The leaves are round and hollow. At the top of the plant, a cluster of "bulblets" will begin to grow, known as "bulbils" or "sets", every plant will produce a cluster. Early spring will show its "bulbils" encased in a papery covering. As they grow, this covering will tear open and fall off. In late summer the "bulbils" will reach maturity. At this stage the "bulbils" look like mini versions of their parent. When the "bulbils" become too heavy they will pull the plant over and the fallen bulbils will take root and grow into new plants.
This process is repeated over and over and is how the plant got its name "Walking Onion". They literally walk across the garden!
Occasionally this onion will produce miniature flowers among its bulbils. These flowers are about 1/4"wide, have 6 white petals and 6 stamens. Each petal has a vertical pea-green stripe. Most flowers dry up as the bulbils compete for energy making it rare to find a viable seed.
Clusters of bulbils can have as few as 2 , or as many as 30 onions. On occasion a new leaf stalk will grow from a cluster of bulbils, looking like a branch, producing another cluster. This is where the name "Tree Onion" comes from.
Once the bulbils root and start to grow in the ground they produce shallot-like onions which can be harvested. These will not grow back. If these are left in the ground the above process will repeat itself year after year.
Once established, plants may be propagated by division or by planting the sets that grow from the top.
One of the first plants to emerge in spring the leaves of Egyptian Walking Onions poke through the soil and will grow up to 3 feet in height. The leaves are round and hollow. At the top of the plant, a cluster of "bulblets" will begin to grow, known as "bulbils" or "sets", every plant will produce a cluster. Early spring will show its "bulbils" encased in a papery covering. As they grow, this covering will tear open and fall off. In late summer the "bulbils" will reach maturity. At this stage the "bulbils" look like mini versions of their parent. When the "bulbils" become too heavy they will pull the plant over and the fallen bulbils will take root and grow into new plants.
This process is repeated over and over and is how the plant got its name "Walking Onion". They literally walk across the garden!
Occasionally this onion will produce miniature flowers among its bulbils. These flowers are about 1/4"wide, have 6 white petals and 6 stamens. Each petal has a vertical pea-green stripe. Most flowers dry up as the bulbils compete for energy making it rare to find a viable seed.
Clusters of bulbils can have as few as 2 , or as many as 30 onions. On occasion a new leaf stalk will grow from a cluster of bulbils, looking like a branch, producing another cluster. This is where the name "Tree Onion" comes from.
Once the bulbils root and start to grow in the ground they produce shallot-like onions which can be harvested. These will not grow back. If these are left in the ground the above process will repeat itself year after year.
 |
| Egyptian Walking Onion |
During their first year they will not produce "bulbils". You might see only greens.
During their second year they will produce "bulbils".
You can snip
off a few early chive-like leaves, leaving the rest to grow on into spring
onions. Pinch some off to enjoy in April and May – the rest will grow taller
and begin to develop bulbils on the end of the leaves.Once established, plants may be propagated by division or by planting the sets that grow from the top.
Planting
in the spring: Sets will grow throughout the spring and summer and develop tall
green leaves and bulb/root growth in the ground. Since it is the
plant's first growing season, it will probably not produce "bulbils".
Planting
in the summer:
Sets
planted at this time will grow roots and leafstalks, and have
some onion bulb development in the ground, but they will not produce "bulbils".
Planting
in the fall:
This is the optimum time to plant
sets. Sets planted at this time will grow roots and leafstalks
only. The leafstalk will die back for the winter. The set will
develop into a small onion bulb in the ground and store enough
energy to carry itself through the winter. A leafstalk will reemerge
in the spring and the plant will grow throughout the spring and
summer to maturity.
Planting
in the winter:
You can plant sets in the winter as
long as the soil is not frozen. If you can dig a 2" deep
hole in the soil, then you can plant your sets. The sets will
not grow much at all - maybe a little bit of root growth only.
Harvesting
the 'Bulbils':
In mid to late summer and autumn the top-sets may be harvested.
The optimal time to pluck off the bulbils is when the leafstalk
has dried and turned brown. More than likely, it has fallen over
by this time. Be sure to remove any bulbils that have fallen to
the ground if you do not want them to self-sow in their new locations.
Despite their name, these plants are very easy to control and
keep from spreading just by harvesting the top-sets. You can eat,
plant, or store the bulbils.
Harvesting
the greens:
The greens (leaves) may be cut and harvested at any time of the
year. Just harvest one or two leaves from each plant. Be careful
not to cut the stalk that has the bulbils. Soon after you have
harvested the leaves from the plant, new
leaves will start to grow in their place which can be harvested
again.
Harvesting
the onion bulbs in the ground:
The onions at the base of the plant that are growing in the ground
can be harvested in late summer and fall. Be sure to leave some
onions in the ground for next year's crop. The bulb is about the same size and shape as a shallot. Bigger
bulbs may be obtained by cutting off the bulbils before they develop.
That way the plant can put its energy into the onion bulb in the
ground instead of into the bulbils.
Note: if you harvest the onion
bulb in the ground, you will destroy the plant - it will not grow
back next year. So, if you want to eat the onion bulbs in the
ground, make sure to replace them by planting topsets, or offsets
from the bulb.
Eating your Walking Onions
The onions taste just like a regular onion, only with a bit
more pizzazz! The entire plant can be eaten. Small onions form
at the base in the soil. They can be eaten and prepared just like
any other onion. The hollow greens may be chopped to eat like
chives or green onions. They are excellent when fried, cooked
in soups, or raw in salads (my favorite). The bulblets that grow
from the top are excellent when peeled and fried or you can pickle them, or pop them in your mouth, they're a little spicy!
February 3, 2013
Next Phase at PTG
We had 13 members show up for a contingency meeting on the future of PTG. Consensus was to plant out the many gardens using more perennials than annuals. This would make it easier for the volunteers to manage the beds. We will concentrate on annual plantings in the sign garden and elliptical beds for all season colour as well as some annuals throughout the "Wedding Garden" and along the building. We will also look at planting grasses and utilizing many of the perennials and bulbs growing on in the nursery, transplanting these into the "Sign Garden", "Corner Bed" and "Wedding Garden" to help cut back on weeding. These areas will be heavily mulched to conserve water as well. Once implemented these methods should help in eliminating a lot of the time spent weeding and watering these massive areas over the summer.
We currently have a couple of bee hives in the garden and we will need to wait for confirmation on whether the bee keeper will be keeping these hives on site or moving them to a new location.
Vegetables have been planned for some of the rows and we will continue to donate any vegetables that are not utilized by volunteers. Donations are done instead of letting the unused vegetables rot in the garden.
Our mandate has been and always will be "PTG is in the knowledge business!"
We currently have a couple of bee hives in the garden and we will need to wait for confirmation on whether the bee keeper will be keeping these hives on site or moving them to a new location.
Vegetables have been planned for some of the rows and we will continue to donate any vegetables that are not utilized by volunteers. Donations are done instead of letting the unused vegetables rot in the garden.
Our mandate has been and always will be "PTG is in the knowledge business!"
January 22, 2013
Chocolate Chip Carrot Cake
from Renee's Garden
Ingredients:
1 cup unsalted butter, at room temperature
2 cups sugar
3 eggs
2 1/2 cups all purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon allspice
2 tablespoons baking cocoa
1/2 cup water
1 tablespoon vanilla
2 cups shredded carrots
3/4 cup chopped nuts
3/4 cup chocolate chips
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.
Ingredients:
1 cup unsalted butter, at room temperature
2 cups sugar
3 eggs
2 1/2 cups all purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon allspice
2 tablespoons baking cocoa
1/2 cup water
1 tablespoon vanilla
2 cups shredded carrots
3/4 cup chopped nuts
3/4 cup chocolate chips
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.
Cream butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add eggs one at a time,
beating well after each addition. Sift dry ingredients together; add to
creamed mixture alternately with water and vanilla. Fold in carrots, nuts,
and chips. Turn into a greased and floured 9- x13-inch pan. Bake for 45
minutes. Cool and top with our Cream Cheese Frosting.
Cream
Cheese Frosting
1/4 cup butter, at room temperature
6 to 8 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1 teaspoon grated orange zest (orange part of peel)
2 cups powdered sugar, measured and then sifted
2 to 3 tablespoons milk
6 to 8 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1 teaspoon grated orange zest (orange part of peel)
2 cups powdered sugar, measured and then sifted
2 to 3 tablespoons milk
Serves 8 to 10
January 10, 2013
Perennial Plant of the Year 2013
Polygonatum odoratum ‘Variegatum’
Polygonatum odoratum ‘Variegatum’ grows 18 to 24 inches tall and will spread by rhizomes to form colonies. The oval shaped leaves are carried on upright, arching and unbranched stems. Leaves are variegated a light green with white tips and margins turning an an attractive yellow in autumn. Pairs of small, sweetly fragrant, bell-shaped white flowers bloom in spring with green tips are borne on short pedicels from the leaf axils underneath the arching stems. Bluish-black berries are sometimes present in the autumn. Variegated Solomon’s seal is perfect for the shady woodland garden or the part-shade to full shade border. A great companion plant to other shade lovers including hostas, ferns and astilbes. Variegated foliage is excellent in spring floral arrangements or in fall when the foliage turns yellow.
Light
part to full shade conditions.
Soil
prefers moist, well-drained soil.
Uses
This perennial offers vivid highlights in shaded areas of borders, woodland gardens or naturalized areas. The variegated foliage is attractive in flower arrangements.
Unique Qualities
Polygonatum odoratum ‘Variegatum’ has arching stems, which carry pairs of small, bell-shaped white flowers in mid to late spring. Variegated ovate leaves are soft green with white tips and margins. Fall leaf color is yellow.
Maintenance
There are no serious insect or disease problems with variegated Solomon’s seal. Plants may be divided in the spring or fall. White rhizomes should be planted just below the soil surface. Polygonatum odoratum ‘Variegatum’ is a very easy perennial to grow and will enhance any shade area.
Hardiness
USDA Zones 3 to 8.
Photos by Steven Still/Perennial Plant Association
Polygonatum odoratum ‘Variegatum’ grows 18 to 24 inches tall and will spread by rhizomes to form colonies. The oval shaped leaves are carried on upright, arching and unbranched stems. Leaves are variegated a light green with white tips and margins turning an an attractive yellow in autumn. Pairs of small, sweetly fragrant, bell-shaped white flowers bloom in spring with green tips are borne on short pedicels from the leaf axils underneath the arching stems. Bluish-black berries are sometimes present in the autumn. Variegated Solomon’s seal is perfect for the shady woodland garden or the part-shade to full shade border. A great companion plant to other shade lovers including hostas, ferns and astilbes. Variegated foliage is excellent in spring floral arrangements or in fall when the foliage turns yellow.
Light
part to full shade conditions.
Soil
prefers moist, well-drained soil.
Uses
This perennial offers vivid highlights in shaded areas of borders, woodland gardens or naturalized areas. The variegated foliage is attractive in flower arrangements.
Unique Qualities
Polygonatum odoratum ‘Variegatum’ has arching stems, which carry pairs of small, bell-shaped white flowers in mid to late spring. Variegated ovate leaves are soft green with white tips and margins. Fall leaf color is yellow.
Maintenance
There are no serious insect or disease problems with variegated Solomon’s seal. Plants may be divided in the spring or fall. White rhizomes should be planted just below the soil surface. Polygonatum odoratum ‘Variegatum’ is a very easy perennial to grow and will enhance any shade area.
Hardiness
USDA Zones 3 to 8.
Photos by Steven Still/Perennial Plant Association
January 2, 2013
No Winter Classes in 2013
Your interest in PTG is greatly appreciated.
Unfortunately our Founder and teacher Alan Hickman was diagnosed with cancer and it is now apparent he will not be teaching the 2013 classes. Therefore, classes are cancelled.
However, students wishing to continue volunteering at PTG will be formulating a plan to work, learn and have some fun in the gardens.
Keep checking in for updates.
Have a great New Year and Happy Gardening
Unfortunately our Founder and teacher Alan Hickman was diagnosed with cancer and it is now apparent he will not be teaching the 2013 classes. Therefore, classes are cancelled.
However, students wishing to continue volunteering at PTG will be formulating a plan to work, learn and have some fun in the gardens.
Keep checking in for updates.
Have a great New Year and Happy Gardening
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