December 20, 2012
A bleak prospect
Here is how the beehives looked against the stark landscape of PTG in December. When spring arrives the fields will green up and we will be ready for another season.
September 18, 2012
Fall Fair 2012
Thanks
to Jessica, who provided the beehive material, to Linda who coaxed the
vegetables into production and to Marilyn who led the flower garden
work, PTG was able to have a respectable display in the arena building
at the 2012 Fall Fair. Although the
display was mostly unstaffed, several people did drop by to sit for a
while and talk to anybody who showed interest. 98 brochures and 69
business cards were picked up over the four days. After the fair, all
the produce was freshened up and just over 77 pounds of assorted
vegetables were delivered to the Knights Table.
May 5, 2012
Last Class
What a flurry of activity.
I have not had the opportunity to be at any of this years classes, so when I arrived just before 2pm and found the nursery garden filled with people already assembled and working at assigned tasks I was excited and elated.
Linda, Marilyn and Brian have really stepped up to the plate and without their collective hard work I'm sure we would not be as far along as we are.
Alan has problems with his young pup and as a result was late arriving to this class.
When I spoke with Linda I got my assigned spot in Block D clearing straw from one of the rows and turning over the soil looking for deep roots to clear away, prepping this bed for onion planting. Because I have had no involvement so far I was virtually anonymous and this cleared me to just be one of the volunteers. There were already three others doing the same task in this Block. When my row was completed I let the others continue and went on to help two others repair and rebuild two very long cold frames along the back of the beds. One placed old shingles along the floor to keep the weeds down and we laid old skids over top to place the potted plants for frost protection. Once this task was completed I moved over to the potting area where there were 4 volunteers potting dahlias to be placed into the cold frames.
There were also 3 or 4 loading hay into the trailer and dropping it off near Block C and 3 working on planting some vegetables in Block C.
People started packing up around 4:15pm and once the potting volunteers started to leave I headed over to check on the peony beds and pull some of the dandelions and other unwanted plants form the area. I also checked on the rhubarb which needs to be divided.
I hope with the momentum continues. . . . . . .
I have not had the opportunity to be at any of this years classes, so when I arrived just before 2pm and found the nursery garden filled with people already assembled and working at assigned tasks I was excited and elated.
Linda, Marilyn and Brian have really stepped up to the plate and without their collective hard work I'm sure we would not be as far along as we are.
Alan has problems with his young pup and as a result was late arriving to this class.
When I spoke with Linda I got my assigned spot in Block D clearing straw from one of the rows and turning over the soil looking for deep roots to clear away, prepping this bed for onion planting. Because I have had no involvement so far I was virtually anonymous and this cleared me to just be one of the volunteers. There were already three others doing the same task in this Block. When my row was completed I let the others continue and went on to help two others repair and rebuild two very long cold frames along the back of the beds. One placed old shingles along the floor to keep the weeds down and we laid old skids over top to place the potted plants for frost protection. Once this task was completed I moved over to the potting area where there were 4 volunteers potting dahlias to be placed into the cold frames.
There were also 3 or 4 loading hay into the trailer and dropping it off near Block C and 3 working on planting some vegetables in Block C.
People started packing up around 4:15pm and once the potting volunteers started to leave I headed over to check on the peony beds and pull some of the dandelions and other unwanted plants form the area. I also checked on the rhubarb which needs to be divided.
I hope with the momentum continues. . . . . . .
March 11, 2012
Strawberries to Whiten Teeth
The secret to this inexpensive home whitening method is malic acid, which acts as an astringent to remove surface discoloration. Combined with baking soda, strawberries become a natural tooth-cleanser, buffing away stains from wine, coffee, and dark sodas. “Be careful not to use this too often, though, as the acid could damage the enamel on your teeth.”
Directions: Crush the strawberry to a pulp, then mix with the baking soda until blended. Use a soft toothbrush to spread the mixture onto your teeth. Leave on for 5 minutes, then brush thoroughly with toothpaste to remove the berry–baking soda mix. Rinse to avoid damage to the enamel. (A little floss will help get rid of any strawberry seeds.) Do not use more than once a week.
It is very important to brush your teeth well after using any strawberry treatment. Strawberries do contain natural sugar, and leaving them on your teeth for long periods of time could cause cavities. And the very ingredient that whitens our teeth, malic acid, can be harmful if left on too long. Any type of acid could eat through our teeth’s enamel, and that also provides ample opportunity for cavities to form.
Anybody do this??
January 28, 2012
Starting Seeds Indoors
Update from Alan Hickman
Except for some specialty perennials, starting seeds indoors begins in
March so don’t panic and don’t go buying ‘seed started kits’, soil mixes
or anything else. PTG Class #III (11th Feb) is all about soil and will
cover the construction of flower and vegetable beds. Class #IV, the
following week, is a ‘show and tell’ about seeds, seeding, and tuber and
pelargonium propagation. These two classes will discuss what to do, how when and, more particularly, why.
Broadly speaking, all packaged seed sold at retail - by mail or in
store - will meet some generally accepted standard of viability and that
standard will vary depending on the sort of seed and what sort of
growing season the particular seed crop has had. The viability will also
depend on how the seed has been handled in shipping and in the store.
Also broadly speaking, seeds available in non-specialty outlets will
tend to be those which are the most reliable and the most easy to grow.
Regarding the sort of lights which should be used for starting seeds
indoors, the best answer is: whatever you can pick up for free. If you
have a choice – and beggars are seldom choosers – warm white florescent
tubes. The whole setup will only be in use for around eight weeks and
growing your own seedlings only makes economic sense if you have no, or a
very low, capital investment.
Except under unusual
circumstances, after a couple of weeks outside, the difference, between
seedlings raised under the most expensive wide-spectrum grow-lights and
those grown under third hand daylights or cool whites, isn’t enough for
home gardeners to bother about. If you are growing Mary Jane different
rules apply.
As to what to grow, because garden space is always
at a premium, tend to look for things which are high value and low
volume. Most herbs would fall into this category, and what is not used
fresh can often be dried for winter use. It make no financial sense, for
instance, to grow garlic. 3lb. of fresh, cleaned, vacuum packed, cloves
can be had, in the middle of winter, for $3.99. You couldn’t prepare
enough ground to grow three pounds of garlic for four bucks, let alone
buy the seed, plant, weed, harvest and clean the crop.
See you at Class number III.
January 27, 2012
Secateurs
Update from Alan
The
fourth item to come out of last Saturday’s class was the unexpected
result of the secateurs ‘prune off’ demonstration. For those who weren’t
in the class, we tested how much force was needed to cut through a
piece of dowelling using a range of secateurs. At one end of the range
was a really cheap ‘no name’ tool that someone had thrown away in a bag
of leaves. I’d picked up the bag at the
side of the road and dumped the contents into my composter and, some
years later, found the secateurs in an advanced state of corrosion. At
the other end of the scale was an $80.00 tool, manufactured by Barco,
which seems to be well regarded in the grape growing industry where
pruning is an intensive year round activity. Examples from the
ubiquitous Felco line, found at better garden suppliers, were also
included.
This game has been played every year since the
classes started in 2004 and the results have always been consistent. All
the blades were razor sharp, as shown by their ability to cut a sheet
of paper, but the more costly the tool the less effort it took to cut
the standard dowel. Much the same result ensued on Saturday until Troy
produced his Fiskars pruners. The ‘Power Gear’ model sliced through the
dowel not quite like butter but clearly with less effort than the Barco
pruners at three times the price. How come?
The selling
‘feature’ of the Power Gear is a rack-and-pinion arrangement which
rotates the lower handle as the jaws are closed. I bought the model,
disengaged the pinion and could detect no degradation in blade’s ability
to cut the dowel. The ‘gear’ appears to be a marketing device used
distinguish the design and to justify the $32.00 price tag.
Of
the examples used, the Barco has a large head - it can cut up to 1.25
diameter if the wood is soft enough, the Felco has a medium head, and
the Fiskars have a small head - up to maybe 0.75" dia capacity - but, as
they were all cutting the same size stick, what has this got to do with
the required force? Turns out, everything.
For a given size
of stick, the bigger the blade is the greater the distance between the
pivot and the ‘sweet spot’, the actual contact point of the cutting
edge. For an 7/16 stick, the Fiskars distance is 1.1” for Barco 1.8”, a
more than a 3:2 mechanical advantage in favour of the smaller head. In
other words: the handles of the small bladed tool need only two thirds
of the squeeze force of the larger bladed tool to exert the same cutting
force on a given diameter of stick.
Price and ‘quality’
have nothing to do with how easily secateurs will cut a stick, simple
geometry determines that. P & Q have to do with durability,
functional design details, balance and what can be best described as
‘feel’. I have never seen this written down anywhere and, but for Troy
giving me the gears, I’d likely never have given the matter any thought.
This is why I teach the classes. I learn stuff.
Glen said: This kind of information is exactly why the Peel Teaching Garden classes are so useful. It is unlikely a salesperson at Rona, Canadian Tire or Home Depot or even Humber Nurseries could give this kind of insight and guidance.
January 23, 2012
Spade Sharpening
Update from Alan
The difficulty that left-handed gardeners have when it comes to sharpening a spade had never occurred to me. In the write up http://www.teachinggarden.org/ sharpening.html
I glibly glossed over the problem with the admonition “Sinisters make
the usual adjustments.” It turns out that a right handed single cut file
cannot be used left handed, the teeth are going the wrong way and will
not cut. A left handed file - so far as I can discern - is not
manufactured. What I demonstrated in the class was not left handed
filing, it was just awkward right handed filing.
There may be a
way around this using the tool as a draw file but, because I’m a bit
ambidextrous, I’m not sure if I’m filing left handed or just back
handed. Between now and the next class I’ll try to sit down with a left
hander and see if there is any way to do the job other than learning to
file right handed. Either way, I’m going to have to rewrite part of the
document which has been on-line these past five years.
The difficulty that left-handed gardeners have when it comes to sharpening a spade had never occurred to me. In the write up http://www.teachinggarden.org/
There may be a way around this using the tool as a draw file but, because I’m a bit ambidextrous, I’m not sure if I’m filing left handed or just back handed. Between now and the next class I’ll try to sit down with a left hander and see if there is any way to do the job other than learning to file right handed. Either way, I’m going to have to rewrite part of the document which has been on-line these past five years.
January 21, 2012
Class #2
Update from Alan
Class
number two, last Saturday, was well worth me getting up for. I ended up
with at least four things that I had never given any thought to before.
In this post I’ll deal with the easy one:
In my story about
the old geezers standing out in their front yards on warm weekend
mornings with a squirter on the end of a hose ‘watering the lawn’. About
them sending a fine spray into the air and me watching
most of the moisture drift off in the breeze either to fall out in the
road or to evaporate never to be seen again. As soon as I said that they
wouldn’t live long enough to get the requisite one inch layer of water
on the lawn, I realized that I really had no idea how long it would
actually take.
In the story I used the floor space in front of
the tables in the classroom as the size of a small lawn, about 10' by
20'. 200sq.ft. one inch deep requires near enough 17 cubic feet of
water. So, how long does it take to get that much water through the
squirter? The picture shows how. 50' of ½" hose connected to the washing
machine faucet and a bucket that just happened to be half a cubic foot
in volume. It took a minute and five seconds to fill the bucket or two
minutes and ten seconds to pass one cubic foot.
Assuming all
the water reached the ground, it would take a tad under forty minutes to
water 200 square feet of lawn. Taking into account evaporation and
drift, the vagaries of water pressure, hosepipe length and diameter, and
faucet size, probably an hour to an-hour-and-a-half to do the job
properly. Not a lifetime perhaps but totally impractical and actually
damaging to the grass.
Rules of Gardening
While reviewing garden rules - there are none - I drew a parallel
between piano playing and gardening. A piano has a number of keys and
using two fingers almost anyone can knock out a recognizable tune. The
repertoire expands with the knowledge and virtuosity of the player.
Horticulture also has a number of keys, simple techniques and
principles, and with little more than ‘green
side up’ and ‘snip off the dead bits’ something garden like can be
achieved. Just as a piano contains every piece of music ever composed,
(someone is going to jump on this I just know it) so every garden ever
created was based on one combination or another of basic horticultural
notes.
So how many garden ‘notes’ are there? I really have no
idea, but like a piano I’d guess that the most used ones are clustered
around the middle. Last Saturday I couldn’t remember how many keys a
piano had, but I can now definitively state: ‘standard’ is 88, a few
have 85, and the Bosendorfer 9'6" concert grand has 97. Isn’t Google
wonderful. Trouble is, the 97 key job is just screaming to have its own
limerick and that will be a challenge.
Comment from Patty : While most pianos have 88 keys, there are thousands of plants to create a myriad of gardens. Alan teaches you things you didn't know you didn't know. Like how to buy a proper corn broom that will last you 20 years. Glad I'm taking this course!
January 9, 2012
Update from Alan Hickman
It’s
Monday after the first class and my head has now stopped spinning. In
case it wasn’t obvious, once I get a head of steam going I’m in some
other dimension. By the time 4:30 rolls around and I land, I’m left
wondering where I’ve been. Fortunately, Marilyn and Brian managed to
catch the biggest bloopers and kept me roughly on track so it wasn’t all
a total disaster. Looking at the pictures of the
session, it seems that there was a fair bit of interaction during the
break and that is encouraging. Also, about half the class has now
‘friended’ or ‘liked’ the two Facebook pages so we can now communicate
easily.
As the Facebook setup is new to PTG, I really don’t
know what to expect or how it is going to work. As I used up all the
time we had on Saturday, there was no time left for class input and
there must be questions still out there. So, give me some practice. Post
whatever to the PTG ‘wall’ and let me try to come up with answers.
January 8, 2012
Class #1
Update from Alan Hickman
We
have the results of Saturday’s gardening quiz. The overall average for
the class was 46% which is where it would be expected to be. The range
was 8 - 21 correct answers.
It is a noteworthy reflection of
the power of marketing and popular miss-information that 15 of the 19
papers had the wrong answer to question #4. Organic means? It is
absolutely not a guarantee that the product is safe to eat.
For instance, one is just as likely, perhaps slightly more likely, to
get e. coli contamination on produce labelled ‘organic’ as on any other
produce.
The following abstract is from an ‘Eclectic Gardener’ column.
“While promoting food as being organic by itself is about as misleading
as advertising cholesterol-free broccoli, come 8th December 2008, when
the Organic Products Regulations (Canadian Organic Production Systems
General Principles and Management Standards CAN/CGSB 32.310 and
Permitted Substances Lists CAN/CGSB 32.311) come in to full force,
products carrying the Biologique Canada Organic logo will have a valid
distinction.
Unfortunately and contrary to what most consumers
probably believe, the industry and government officials who constructed
the standards make a point of stressing that it is only the methods of
production which are being regulated. The quality of the resulting
products is not the focus of the legislation. Certified Biologique
Canada Organic produce has to meet exactly the same standards of
quality, purity and safety as the produce resulting from non-certified
methods. Any Canada ‘fancy’ grade apple will meet the same standard,
regardless of how or where it is grown. If it doesn’t meet the standard
the apple isn’t a ‘fancy’ grade.
The framers of the legislation
also state clearly that certified products are not guaranteed to be
entirely free from the residues of prohibited substances or other
contaminants.”
December 20, 2011
My subversive (garden) plot
Update from Alan Hickman
Everyone
who has signed up for this winter’s garden classes, and past students
who are planning to sit in, should take a few minutes to watch: www.ted.com/talks/ roger_doiron_my_subversive_gard en_plot.html.
While I may not agree with his solution for future food production, his
analysis of the magnitude of what has to be done is truly awe
inspiring.
www.ted.com
TED
Talks A vegetable garden can do more than save you money -- it can save
the world. At TEDxDirigo Roger Doiron shows how gardens can re-localize
our food and feed our growing population.
High Temperature:
Actual: -5°C
Average: 1°C
Record: 12°C in 1957
Actual: -11°C
Average: -7°C
Record: -31°C in 1942
December 19, 2011
December 18, 2011
December 17, 2011
December 16, 2011
December 15, 2011
December 14, 2011
December 13, 2011
December 12, 2011
Update from Alan Hickman
On Ants and Nuclear Power Stations
When discussing the meaning of ‘natural’ in last Saturday’s class, I
put forward the proposition that a nuclear power station is just as
natural as an anthill.
Ants take natural sand and natural spit
and use them to modify the environment for the benefit of their species.
Humans take natural sand and natural pebbles and natural limestone, to
make concrete buildings; they take
natural iron and natural carbon to make steel structures, and they take
natural uranium to make fuel, all to further the cause of the human
species.
Anthill technology is just as cutting-edge to the ant
species as nuclear power-station technology is to the human species.
The difference, such as it might be, is one of degree, not one of kind.
Both the anthill and the power station are made of natural stuff dug
out of the ground and processed. If the power-station is deemed to be
not natural, then it can only be because the humans who made it are not
natural. And that poses the question: ‘When did humans cease to be
natural creatures?’
A couple of points which I did not bring up in class are here taken from Wikipedia:
“A natural nuclear fission reactor is a uranium deposit where analysis
of isotope ratios has shown that self-sustaining nuclear chain reactions
have occurred. The existence of this phenomenon was discovered in 1972
at Oklo in Gabon, Africa, by French physicist Francis Perrin. The
conditions under which a natural nuclear reactor could exist had been
predicted in 1956 by Paul Kazuo Kuroda. The conditions found were very
similar to what was predicted.
Oklo is the only known location
for this in the world and consists of 16 sites at which self-sustaining
nuclear fission reactions took place approximately 1.7 billion years
ago, and ran for a few hundred thousand years, averaging 100 kW of power
output during that time.”
Additionally, “Plasma physicist John
Brandenburg has detected anomalies in gamma ray emissions from Mars in
data from the NASA Mars Odyssey orbiter. This points to an abundance of
radioactive uranium, thorium and potassium, especially in one particular
spot on Mars that indicates that there was once a thick layer of
radioactive substances, and the likelihood of a natural reactor.”
There is probably not a whole lot that humans do that nature hasn’t
already done without out help. Like harnessing fire and water we’ve
merely figured out ways to get the energy stored in atoms to do work for
us.
So what do anthills and power stations and the
possibility of fission reactors on Mars have to do with gardening? The
immediate object of the proposition was to show the importance of saying
what you actually mean. Do not say unnatural if what you really mean is
man-made. How an individual explores and resolves the deeper
implications of the proposition, will influence how all sorts of
decisions are made, both in and out of the garden.
High Temperature:
Actual: 1°C mostly sunny Wind WSW8km/h P.O.P.0%
Average: 2°C
Record: 19°C in 1946
Actual: -8°C mostly clear Wind WNW9km/h P.O.P.2%
Average: -6°C
Record: -20°C in 1988
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