Taken from Eclectic Gardener @ www.teachinggarden.org
Written by Alan Hickman

Having arrived in the third week of October without any frost, the bedding plants which did manage to survive the heat and drought of summer are finally coming into their own.
If the little plastic rain-measuring cup that the Region was giving away at the fall fair is any indication, we’ve had less than an inch of rain over the past month; but, that and the cooler nights have been enough to encourage dahlias and cannas to produce proper-sized blooms, for late-blooming Gladiolas callianthus a.k.a. Acidanthera, to cover themselves in purple-throated, lily-like, white blossoms, and for long-suffering pelargoniums to put on a bit of growth and colour.
Even the trees seem to be perking up. The leaves which coloured prematurely have fallen and blown away, but the foliage which remains is staying green to add to the plants’ energy reserves.
Although procrastination in starting fall garden work is likely an asset this year, trees should be receiving special attention right now. Last fall was dry, the summer was a drought and, so far, this fall’s rain has been little more than a dribble, so all the trees are under stress.
Evergreen trees are especially vulnerable to water stress because their foliage transpires all winter. If there are many warm sunny days in February and March, while the ground is frozen and the roots cannot replenish such water as the plants do have, then ‘cedar’ hedges and costly specimen plants are at risk of desiccating and dying.
On a weekly basis from now to freeze-up, tree watering should be on the gardening agenda. Evergreen hedges need to have a black porous soaker-hose laid on each side along the drip line. Scratch out a small hole somewhere under the hose and inset a margarine tub or some other small shallow container to measure the amount of water seeping from the hose.
Once a week, run the hose until about an inch of water collects in the container. Empty the container and reinsert it after each watering. If, during the following week, it rains and water collects in the container, just run the hose long enough to make up a total of one inch.The same treatment applies to specimen trees. Coil a soaker hose around the tree at the drip-line and apply the requisite one inch of water weekly.
While older deciduous trees will likely get by with whatever water nature provides, younger trees - planted, say, five years or fewer - should also get a regular water boost for insurance. The cost of the water is nothing compared to the cost of a new tree. Even after all the leaves have dropped, the roots remain active so it is advisable to maintain soil moisture right through to freeze-up.
Watering trees and shrubs with anything other than a soaker hose is a non-starter. Like trying to water a lawn by hand, spraying at an evergreen hedge with a hand-held hose-end squirter is not only futile and a waste of water, it’s just plain ignorant.
If evergreens go in to winter with good moisture reserves they’ll probably survive; but, if you’ve recently spent a pile of money on Emerald Cedars or a Golden Juniper, then some sort physical protection might make you feel less anxious. Physical protection does not mean wrapping-up the trees like a parade of mummies. Far from trying to keep a tree warm, the provision of a physical barrier is to keep the plant evenly cool, protected from wind and shaded from winter sun. In the urban area, wind is usually less of an issue so just the south, east and west sides of the plant might need to be shielded. Out of town or if a plant is exposed to strong north winds, a shield might be needed on all sides.
Burlap supported on stout stakes has traditionally been used as barrier material. Anytime now, the stakes - two by two’s at least - can be firmly driven into the ground far enough away from the tree that the burlap will not touch the branch tips. When the ground is securely frozen and the trees are quite dormant, the burlap can be securely stapled to the wood. The bottom edge of the burlap should be a foot or two above ground level and the top should be high enough to provide the required shade. Do not put a lid on the top; it’ll just collect snow and drip iced water.
Come spring, don’t be in a hurry to uncover. Wait until the ground has completely thawed and the tree’s roots are fully functioning before taking down the protective structure.

Day +14 a few showers Winds S25km/h P.O.P.40%
Night +5 chance of showers Winds SW20km/ h P.O.P.40%